A Deep Dive into Panerai's 2020 Watches and Wonders Releases
Watches and Wonders Saves the Day
With Baselworld on its knees and the uncertain future of trade shows in the watchmaking industry hanging around like a bit of a dark cloud, Watches and Wonders (formerly SIHH) has brought some positivity to the industry via their online event this year. With thirty brands ranging from relative newcomers such as Speake-Marin to industry behemoths like Vacheron Constantin, it certainly looked to be an incredible year for the show. Here at Horus Straps, we’ve been particularly excited to find out what Panerai has in store for 2020. And oh, have they delivered.
The Year of Luminor?
With 2020 marking 70 years since the initial launch of the Luminor, and Panerai even calling it the “Year of the Luminor”, it was to be expected that Panerai would focus their attention on one of their most iconic models. This year Panerai did just that, adding 8 new models of the Luminor to their arsenal – as well as one new Submersible. It’s interesting to note that none of the 9 novelties Panerai has released are smaller than 44mm. With the direction Panerai has been going in recently, it’s certainly a surprise that there isn’t a smaller version. Still, given the importance of the year, they must have wanted to stay true to the specifications that made the Luminor so iconic. Here, we’ll take you through the new models and what makes them so great.
Luminor 70 Years
Released as a limited-edition collection of three models (270 pieces each), the Luminor 70 Years is as visually stimulating as a watch can get. The visually defining characteristic of these three models is that they come adorned with green super luminova on their inner bezels, along the periphery of their crown guards, and in their strap's stitching. While that certainly looks cool, it isn’t as cool as the 70-year warranty Panerai has given for these watches. This, coupled with the recent warranty upgrade from 2 to 8 years for models less than 2 years old, speaks volumes about Panerai’s confidence in themselves as watchmakers.
The Luminor Marina DMLS (PAM01117) comes with a blue dial, a date display at 3 o’clock, sub-seconds at 9 o’clock, and a gorgeous blue sandwich dial. This all comes housed within a 44mm laser syntherised titanium case and is powered by Panerai’s automatic P.9100 in-house movement. With its blue dial, green lume, we can’t wait to pair this piece with one of our bright colored rubber watch bands for Panerai. If you’re looking to purchase this piece, the PAM01117 comes with a price tag of $18,900.
The next model in the collection is the Luminor Marina Carbotech (PAM01118). As the name suggests, this model is made of Panerai’s carbon-fibre composite material – Carbotech. As a result, the 44mm case is a gorgeous black color with grey swirling patterns throughout. To complete the black-out look, Panerai has fitted the Carbotech with a black sandwich dial and black Sportech strap. It also comes with the same dial layout and movement as the DMLS. It is priced at $16,000.
Last but not least, we have the Luminor Marina Fibratech (PAM01119). Using new manufacturing techniques from the aerospace industry, Panerai has created their Fibratech material. Supposedly 70% lighter than steel, it is constructed by binding unidirectional mineral fibres in a polymer. This then creates thin layers of material that can be stacked and bonded to make the shape of the case. This new technique creates a dark matte grey finish and embeds a design within the case that is unique to every particular watch. With specifications identical to the DMLS and Carbotech, the Fibratech is the latest in material technology from the brand. The Fibratech is going to pair beautifully with one of our Graphite Camo Rubber Straps for Panerai, which will highlight the unique pattern of its case. The PAM0119 comes with a price tag of $18,900.
Going for Goldtech
Next, the Luminor Marina Goldtech (PAM01112) is Panerai’s first Marina made of their in-house Goldtech material. Consisting of 75% gold, 24% copper and 0.4% platinum, Goldtech is noticeable for its reddish hue and deep golden luster. The Marina Goldtech’s 44mm satin-brushed case and royal blue dial will win over any Paneristi looking to add a more dressy option to their collection. We can’t wait to see this piece paired with one of our leather straps for Panerai. This piece comes with a higher price tag of $22,900.
Luminor Marina Fibratech
Another model made from Panerai’s Fibratech material, this Fibratech (PAM01663) is a more traditional design as it lacks the lume on its crown guard, inside its bezel, or in the stitching of its strap. This Fibratech is also a blend of both materials, Carbotech and Fibratech as its bezel is made of Carbotech. This creates a fantastic depth to the watch as the darker bezel stands out against the slightly lighter Fibratech. The blue vignette-style sandwich dial, with a lighter centre and darker periphery, also has this design element to it. With the tonal design of its case and vignette blue dial, the Fibratech is going to look incredible on our Blue Camo Rubber Strap. The shades of blue and black throughout it would make this piece look all the better. The PAM01663 is priced at $16,000.
The Ultimate Sportsman’s watch
Designed for the Luna Rossa Challenge Team, Challenger of Record of the 36th America’s Cup, the Panerai Luna Rossa GMT (PAM01036) is one of the more traditional looking Panerai releases this year. Made of titanium coated with DLC, the Luna Rossa certainly can be the ultimate sportsman’s watch as the DLC renders the watches case essentially scratch-resistant. The truly unique design element of the Luna Rossa is its dark gray sail material dial, as it adds a gorgeous visual texture to the piece. This piece is priced at $11,200.
Mike Horn Limited Edition
Limited to just 5 pieces, the only watch that Panerai has released at Watches and Wonders that isn't a Luminor is the Submersible EcoPangaea Tourbillion GMT (PAM01108). The purchasers of these watches will have to spend $189,000 to get them, but they will also be able to go on an expedition to the Arctic with esteemed explorer and Panerai ambassador Mike Horn. The watch itself is intrinsically linked to Mike Horn as it is constructed of recycled steel from the drive-shaft of his sailing ship, the Pangaea. The watch has a somewhat industrial look due to its skeletonised construction and unidirectional dive bezel - and both of these elements speak volumes of this watches utilitarianism. It also features a tourbillion, making it the first Submersible to have a tourbillon movement.
The Epitome of Endurance
The final two watches from Panerai this year are both Luminor Marinas, the first of which is the Luminor Marina Carbotech (PAM01661). Just like the 70 Years Carbotech model released this year, this version is also made entirely of Carbotech – it just lacks the lume that adorns its counterpart, and the lume it does have is blue instead of green. This model is, of course, not a limited release or nor does it come with the 70-year warranty of the 70 Years model, so it is a more readily available version of Panerai’s Carbotech offerings. Priced at $12,800.
The final watch from Panerai is without a doubt the most traditional Luminor they have released this year. With a titanium case, Carbotech bezel, and transparent lume, this Luminor Marina (PAM01662) goes under the radar due to its unassuming looks. The anthracite sandwich dial helps to add another layer of color to the monotone design of this piece. The grayscale color theme of this piece lends itself to a variety of watch straps, and we can’t wait to see what our customers decide to pair it with. This piece is priced at $15,000.
Overall, we feel the 2020 releases are certainly a move in the right direction for the Italian brand. With their material innovations and exclusive use of in-house movements, Panerai is certainly asserting themselves as the major player in the world of haute horology that they are.